Press

Mirror
by A.J. KINIK

I’ve said this before, but in spite of all the hype to the contrary, it’s rare that you come across a nouveau concept in this town deserving of the label. Every once in a while, though, you find a place like Kitchen Galerie and you actually glimpse an approach to restauration that’s truly new and, I should add, worthwhile.

Pay Kitchen Galerie a visit and you’re not going to be asked to dine in total darkness. You won’t be subjected to any drivel about “fun” and “play,” and “releasing the child within.” Your dinner won’t be served to you amidst the decadence of elegantly appointed mattresses. No liquid nitrogen will be used in the preparation of your meal. And Kitchen Galerie has no pretensions of actually being an art gallery.

The concept at Kitchen Galerie is simple, but surprisingly effective. It boils down to this: the two co-owners are also the restaurant’s two chefs, its maîtres d’hôtel, its sommeliers, its waiters, its bussers and its dishwashers. There’s only one other employee at Kitchen Galerie and, taking a lead from his employers, he too is a jack-of-many-trades, moving back and forth busily from the kitchen to the dining room. Doesn’t sound very radical, I know, but what you realize soon after you set foot in Kitchen Galerie is that even among your cheapest, most affordable restaurants, it’s rare that there’s no separate wait staff of any kind, and unheard of that you should have a meal that includes conversations with every member of the kitchen staff, including its dishwashers. Of course, because of this formula, you’re not going to find grand service at Kitchen Galerie, but then if you’re hung-up on such things, you really shouldn’t be reading this column, and besides, many of us prefer our service to be of the unstuffy and unrehearsed variety.

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The Gazette
by LESLEY CHESTERMAN

Three chefs, no waiters. Kitchen galerie trades a bit of glamour in its setting but rewards diners amply with a talented trio that does everything - yes, everything. Foodies have already caught on.

This review begins with an apology. Sarah Musgrave, I'm sorry I stole your restaurant.I know you thought it was casual, and I realized my ripping it off your list was a little underhanded. But when I heard about the concept and the chef behind the endeavor, I just had to go. Yes this restaurant is a white-tablecloth-free zone and yes there are only 22 seats in a rather unadorned room. But scratch the surface and you'll find a neighbourhood bistro that equals and often surpasses many a flashier restaurant in town.

OK, now that I've made amends, let me back up a bit and give you an idea of just what Sarah and I were wrangling over.

Kitchen Galerie is the name of the place (no relationship to the 6th-arrondissement Parisian restaurant "Ze Kitchen Galerie") and the concept is a new one around these parts. Not only is this a tablecloth-free zone, it's also a waiter-, dishwasher-, maitre d'- and bus boy-free zone. Three chefs, that's it - no middle men - and plenty of delicious, reasonably priced food.

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